Leather Crafting History from Ancient Times to the Present Day

Leather crafting, or leather working, is the process that turns the hides of cows and other animals into everyday items and works of art. 

Leather crafting involves cutting, sewing, and decorating pieces of tanned animal hide (leather). Experts have identified a few major categories of leather goods across the centuries.

These categories include: clothing, work equipment, military equipment, educational and entertainment items, and leather items for living spaces.  

The widespread use of leather makes it “an important material group” regardless of the fact that it rarely survives as a historical artifact due to it being a natural product. 

The history of leather crafting begins with our most ancient ancestors and continues through the present day. We will explore the types of items crafted from leather throughout history and across cultures. 

Early Origins of Leather Crafting 

The earliest examples of humans using leather date to thousands of years ago. The ancient Sumerians are usually credited with being the first to have leather crafting as a distinct art form and profession. 

Leather artifacts from Sumer, Armenia, and Egypt date as far back as 5,000 BC. Early examples of leather crafted goods include shoes, sandals, and chariot harnesses. 

The ancient Egyptians documented the leather tanning process and several artifacts exist, including the leather toy ball shown above. 

Leather Crafting in the Medieval Period

The leather tanning process did not change much through the ancient period and early middle ages. The Greeks and Romans advanced leather crafting, however, through dyeing, carving, stamping, and molding methods. 

They used leather for items like shoes, waterskins, tents, shields, instruments, and even female athletic wear. 

Medieval leather craftsmen used many of the same techniques as the Greeks and Romans. Tooling, carving, and dyeing techniques were used extensively during the Middle Ages to make leather goods look beautiful and unique. 

The invention of printing led to an increased demand in leather bound books.  

More utilitarian leather products included the backs and seats of furniture. Leather pillows were discovered in Norfolk graves dating to the 7th or 8th centuries. 

Shoes and boots are more obvious examples of medieval leather crafting. Other types of leather clothing and accessories included hoods, capes, and gloves. 

Work wear and equipment made from leather included aprons, bellows, and a wide array of straps. 

Military equipment also utilized leather crafting. Saddles for horses, shields, containers for water and supplies, and many more items were crafted using leather. 

Leather Crafting of the Renaissance    

Renaissance-era leather crafting shared many medieval techniques. While the process of leather crafting remained unchanged, the ways in which leather was used continued to evolve. 

With a renewed interest in classics, science, art, and learning in general, the renaissance saw more books than ever before. Leather bound books featuring ornate cover designs can still be viewed at museums today. 

Even single sheets of parchment could be made with thin pieces of hide. 

The renaissance was an age of new art styles. Leather was incorporated into some textile art during this period. The piece shown below is a textile of Scandinavian origin that uses gilt leather as a decorative element. 

Leather guilds, which originated in the Middle Ages, became more sophisticated during the Renaissance era. Guilds protected craftsman and promoted their work. 

Tanning and leather crafting gained more respect during this period, likely due to the influence of guilds and the ample evidence of a leather worker’s skill in crafting beautiful items like books and furniture. 

Leather clothing of the renaissance included shoes, belts, and even entire ensembles. The coats shown above and below were made for utilitarian purposes and for protection against swords. 

The popularity of dueling required men to protect themselves without using heavy and cumbersome armor. A leather jacket provided protection from the thrusts of a rapier while being flexible and fairly lightweight.  

Gloves and other accessories became more ornate during the renaissance period. People of higher social classes paid to have their leather accessories embroidered, beaded, and set above the accessories of the lower classes. 

Leather Crafting: 18th Century to the Present

Leather crafting continued to make appearances in fashion in the 18th century. The vest above is made from soft doeskin and linen. 

Even women’s undergarments incorporated leather into their designs. This corset is made from several materials to give it the strength and durability required for everyday wear. 

Leather was used in garments like corsets to provide structure and support. 

Leather goods evolved as new inventions were introduced in the 19th century. Machine stitching was invented during the Industrial Revolution of this period. 

Chromium tanning was discovered in 1858, which allowed for faster tanning and thinner, softer leather. 

Tooled leather of the American West became all the rage in the later half of the 19th century and continues to be popular today. Saddles and other types of horse tack, belts, wallets, holsters, boots, and more were finished with tooled designs. 

Native American leather working was also popular during the 19th century. Native Americans had been tanning and working with deer hides for thousands of years, but a renewed interest in cowboys and Indians led to a demand for hide products with Native American style beading. 

The dress shown here is one example of Native American leather working. Deer hide dresses were crafted by scraping hides on frames, soaking them to remove hair, tanning and smoking the leather, sewing, and decorating. 

Dresses were usually crafted from female animals and the qualities of the animals were thought to transfer to the wearer. 

Some dresses with a large amount of beads could weigh over 30 pounds. 

By the early 20th century, most leather working happened within the factory context. Today, we are able to produce leather goods more efficiently than ever before. 

The traditional methods of leather working have experienced a revival in recent years, with classes and online tutorials teaching how to source, design, cut, and sew your own leather goods.